RE: A good night's sleep
I'd suggest trying out a Sleep Number bed at a hotel or something before buying one. We were sure we'd like it, tried it at a hotel, and hated it.
However, we walked into Denver Mattress and walked out with a regular Queen pillow top inner spring mattress (One with enough flexibility to be folded a bit to fit up into the front area on a 117DBL). Best two weeks of sleep my DW has had in two ears in the TC.
The cheaper firm mattresses probably won't bend enough to push into a small opening, but the mid-line ones will, and Denver has a 30 day money back guarantee.
Biggest issue with normal mattresses will be the additional height. We lost 4 inches of headroom with the new mattress, but it was worth it.
Not sure I'd buy a $2000.00 mattress for the TC, but we did look at them.
Jim
RE: Timbren vs. airbags for camper & Lance front struts
While it is possible bags can also fail, I question it is due to being under pressure over pressure. As a matter of fact, I do not recall a post on air bag failure, other than improper instalation. Have you had first hand experience with bag failures? If so please give us the details.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20016349.cfm
Only you know why you removed your air bags. Let there be no question, if you are concerned with drilling holes in your frame, do not do it. I would suggest you look at your frame, do you see any holes in it?
I removed them because they failed, as per the post above. I wasn't initially concerned with drilling holes, but I never considered that the air bags would end up not being useful. As for holes, I don't see any that aren't being used.
You say you "have 8 bolts in my frame that fill the 8 holes where my bags were previously mounted", why leave the bolts, after removing the bags? Did you really have to drill eight holes?
No, the installer drilled them, but each Air-Ride bracket takes 4 bolts to hold it to the frame, so I did need to drill 8 holes. As for leaving the bolts in, the frame shop said leaving the bolts in would prevent rust and would be better for the structure than leaving them out.
have been proven for years. The failures I have seen have been due to improper install, not using self-locking nuts and no air when loaded.
No air when loaded sounds like something I would have ended up with at some point.
The side-to-side usually comes into play when parked/camped. If you fail to see that, then I certainly understand your strong feelings toward airbags.
I might see a bit of it at times, like when completely empty or completely full or fluids. I question the significance, beyond aesthetics.
I will say, a cheap 12 volt air compressor will air up bags, and most tires.
Don't get me wrong, I carry said cheap 12 volt compressor. But, there are times when I needed to load the camper in a hurry, and airing up the bags could be a bother in those instances. Maybe the OP doesn't care, but I think he should at least think about it.
You will not have to check the airbags for leaks. This is a personal thing. Some of us do things as we go through life, without worrying about them. Some of us worry about the simplest things. If you forget to air up your bags when you load your TC, what is the worst that can happen? You will sit low in the back. What is there to worry about? If you did loose air pressure, going down the road with your TC, you would simply sit lower in the back. What is there to worry about?
I was told, by folks on this list, to make sure I checked the pressure at regular intervals. The advice cuts both ways. Sure, maybe it was erroneous advice, but I was new to the game, and it sounded like an issue I needed to keep an eye on. As it turned out, my periodic checks are what found the broken bolts on our way through NM, and the bag leakage.
I respect the fact that any modification to our trucks and TCs can be very challenging to anyone. I just hope the modifications are based on valid information.
Respectfully Jim, I really do not think most have had the same experiences as you have. I am sure there are some that have. I think maybe there is a lot more to your experience than what is posted. It is your experience, and I respect that.
I don't think many do, but I think many may in the future. I'm loaded to the GVWR with a camper that is within earshot of the maximum of the bag limits (either Air-Ride or Firestone, both are good to only 5000 pounds). I'm a lazy TC owner, and bags are just one more thing to think about. I think other options are "good enough". As more people push towards the larger and larger (heavier and heavier) campers and as truck manufacturers continue to "soften" the suspensions on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, I think more people will be in the same boat I am. You have to admit that, with a heavy TC/soft suspension truck combo, getting the unit level requires pumping up the bags to an extent that they are carrying a lot of the weight. At that amount, it would be easy to overload the bags.
RE: Timbren vs. airbags for camper & Lance front struts
I will rebut and say, I'd not go with airbags first.
The likelihood that a bag will develop a leak or hole is greater than the likelihood of an issue with any of the others items listed. All can fail at their install points, but bags can also fail if they are under pressure, over pressure, etc.
Consider the install as well. Most bag installs require drilling. Timbrens replace the factory bump stops, supersprings fit over the regular spring pack, stableloads replace the factory overload bump stops, etc. If you try one of these options and it does not work out, it's easy to take off, put your truck back to stock, sell the item for a bit of loss, and try something else. I, on the other hand, have 8 bolts in my frame that fill the 8 holes where my bags were previously mounted. I regret that. I think things that requires permanent modifications to your truck should be listed last in the preferences.
I chose the bags initially because of the folks on here, who rolled out the "side-to-side sag" argument. I don't buy it, my TC doesn't differ side to side enough to notice. If your camper is heavy enough to need suspension help, it's going to utilize any helper system to a degree that will even out any weight difference within reason.
Do not underestimate the value of *NOT* having to think about the suspension when you load the TC. With bags, I had to remember to ensure they were aired up for the TC, aired down (but not empty, mind you, as that would ruin them, I was told) for unladen driving, and what to do when I dropped the camper enroute (if you opt to leave them aired up, the ride is rough, if you lower them, then you need to either have a compressor on board and some time to bring them back up to pressure, or sag all the way to the next station for some air - Sure, the on board compressor with the in-cab controller removes some of these issues, but that's just more to install and buy).
I have enough to worry about when loading and unloading the TC. Not having to consider the bags pressure and checking them for leaks and pressure along the route does not bother me in the slightest.
Jim
RE: Truck camper or Motorhome
We've had both.
We started with the MH.
Pros: All self contained, you can move about while in motion (if needed, it's risky), more space, less cramped.
Cons: All in one. Can't easily set up camp and then leave for dinner or a show unless you tow. Can't go some places unless you tow. Extra tags and insurance. Hard to upgrade vehicle portion when it gets older, but living area is set up just like you want and so you don't want to change it. Vehicle portion sits idle quite a bit in off-season.
Then, we sold and get a TC:
Pros: Easy to separate after camp setup. Built in toad (so to speak). Truck gets exercise in the off-season. Less insurance and no tags needed.
Cons: Less space, can;t get some options (I know you can get washers and dryers in the big Class A units).
To answer your question, I don't think I would buy a big rig TC, but I have no issue going to an F550 for my current unit or a newer one. But, when the kids get older and have families, we'll probably buy a MH with a toad or a 5er to visit them, since a lot of the disadvantages of the MH would be alleviated if we were just shuttling between the kids' homes. Yet, until we can;t climb into a TC, I think we'll keep one for personal trips. I also don't think we will downsize from our current 117DBL unit when the kids move on. There is a fine line between "cozy" and "cramped".
Jim
RE: Torklift installation
If you don't need to drill to install, have a free afternoon, and know what a wrench looks like, DIY is sure thing. If it requires drilling, etc., then you'll have to consider it.
If the superHitch was ordered, I would suggest a pile of boards to hold the hitch up to the truck while installing (increase height of board stack incrementally to place hitch in correct position). A friend is optional, but handy for the hitch install.
I also highly recommend going to the local AutoZone and renting a torque wrench. At Autozone, it's free (deposit required) and the installation instructions do specify torque amounts for all bolts. Quite handy of them. You can install without it, but you're guessing as to the torque amount, and I didn't feel confident I knew what 80 ft/lb feels like.
I'd plan on more than 45 minutes. Good for those who can stuff it together in that time, but the install instructions took a bit of time for me to understand (where the washers went, etc.) and I saw no reason to rush the install. I think it took me 2 hours to install, including a call to TL on the SUperHitch install (the included spacers were too large, and I had to visit the local hardware store for some washers)
If you arrange ahead of time, one of the DIYers with your make and model of truck can be around for PMs or instant messaging if you would rather not keep calling TL :-)
I will vouch for the install instructions. They were in English, concise, and easy to understand. I still had some troubles, but it was mainly due to the copying of the instructions (too dark as I recall) that caused the issue.
Fishing the bolt through on the Ford sounded complicated, but was thankfully not. I was so afraid I would lose that bolt in the cross member forever, but the fear was unfounded. Neat little fishing tool they provided for that purpose, I must say.
Jim
RE: Timbren vs. airbags for camper & Lance front struts
I use Timbrens now, I had airbags before.
Here is the score:
http://www.trailerlife.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20016349/gotomsg/20016624/p/1.cfm#20016624
Others have had better luck with bags on heavy slide campers, so use as appropriate.
For the record, it's a year+ since that post, and the Timbrens are still working fine. No rough ride with camper off, it's a daily driver, camper is on/off a lot, and I don't have to remember to air them up or down. Side to side leveling is within 1 inch. I'm lazy, so this is the best option for me. Would not go back to bags (nice options, just more work/worry than I need), but would consider extended bump stops (I have them now) and an extra leaf in the overloads (don't have, but considered)
Jim
RE: Ford Tranny Rumor
C'mon over to the "dark side"...
Your left foot won't know what to do with no clutch pedal there to mash all the time.
Welcome to the new world order. While enjoying your new automatic transmission, check out the running water, indoor plumbing, and incandescent lighting.
Jim
RE: Will This Work: GM3500 + 117DBL + 5000lb trailer?
I came to the party late, but I have a 2006 F350 DRW PSD6.0 with a 117DBL, and I would not have chosen that option if we intended to tow a lot. Since we did not intend to tow much initially, we decided the F350 would be within margin for us.
That said, we looked at F550 conversions, and still want to move in that direction. We thought the F350 would allow us to determine what, if any, additional items we needed as we ordered a conversion, and some of the F Series stuff could be moved over to the F550. The Chevy doesn't work that way, so I'm not sure I can be of much help there.
For Interstate driving, I think your combo will be fine, as long as the trailer has good brakes, but if you need to travel backcountry a lot, I think you will be dissatisfied.
As noted in a long ago post here, bags on that much camper makes it sway a lot, and our failed since we pumped them up to 80# or so to level the truck out. Timbrens and extended bump stops leveled out the unit and reduced the sway.
On other points, I highly second the SuperHitch for towing. I bought a 48" extension, but you only need 36" to clear the 117DBL. 42 might give up a bit of extra room, but 48 was just too long.
With this much camper, I just wouldn't trust HappiJac rear tie downs, if you're considering those. When you hit a big bump, it's a big deal with this much camper.
hbski has a anti-sway bar, but maybe that's a Dodge thing, as I've never noticed too much sway since we switched to TImbrens. I did notice lots of sway with the airbags, though.
I think the Ultimate series puts TC buyers in somewhat an awkward position, as they really demand a > 1ton truck.
Jim
RE: One ton dually modifications
My bad, I meant the 13K GVWR, as some F350 DRWs have an 11,400 GVWR.
I thought the D80 was 10K rated, but I'm happy if it's 11K.
Jim
RE: One ton dually modifications
I run a 117DBL on a Ford F350 DRW, and it's dry weighted at 4396#. I have the 13K rear end, and I run only bump stop extensions and Extreme Duty Timbrens. I bought the Energy Suspension bump stops, but if I am planning to go to TorkLift Stable Loads.
Truck sags below level 1" over the length when camper is wet and loaded. I have not felt the need to upgrade sway bars, shocks, or other items as yet.
I will note that I first had air bags and bump stop extensions, but the bags failed (see long post around March of 2007 on this forum), so take for what it is worth. The problem was not the bags per se, but that the truck sagged quite a bit without the bags, so I had 80# or so to even the truck out, and that put most of the weight on the bags, which overloaded them on bumps and potholes.
Jim
RE: Qty: 2 - Broken 2007 Norcold Model N621L Fridges
I've reset the 'n' condition on our 821 a few times, so I don't think it's a one time deal. I can provide info on how to reset va front panel on PM if needed.
However, that said, I am unimpressed with our Norcold. If the power get a abit low, the phase of the moon is not right, it is not perfectly level, or I stare at it wrong or leave the door open too long, it simply quits cooling in the frig portion. VERY Annoying. I have had the cooling unit replaed once, but the issue still exists.
Jim
Snowriver gone :-(
I don't own one, and I know they were a small outfit, but it still saddens me to hear they are no more.
I saw the news in truckcampermagazine this morning, and found a post online with the details.
More shocking was the OKanagan TC business getting shuttered. I own one of those.
Jim
RE: Water Pump/Accumulator Suggestions? (UPDATED)
A much later update to my issue...
Background:
As noted by the shop, the pump was indeed bad. It was letting water back into the freshwater tank through the pump head (Tested by replacing the pump with a known good unit and testing over time).
Current pump was mounted as per the suggestions here, on solid plywood with flexible hoses for both inlet and outlet. I surmised that some of the pump loudness might be due to damage the pump had sustained. FuelHauler noted a similar idea, that the pump could be losing prime and hammering.
Even though the current pump was damaged, it was rated for 2.8GPM, which is close to the 3.5GPM of more expensive units. Since my DW had always complained that the pump did not provide enough power for hair washing, I wondered if the issue was more pressure-related and less volume related. TO those that suggested drilling out restrictors, I found it odd that I would need to do that, since the water pressure and volume was fine when on city hookups.
I read all of the advice given here. Most people felt the accumulator was the better option, and some even went so far as to state the variable speed pumps were a waste of money.
Where I went:
I don't mean this to go the wrong way, but I decided that (Except for Reddog1 and cdl2, who indicated they had both a variable speed pump and the accumulator tank), it looked like many had not given the VS pump a try, since it was far easier to add the accumulator tank (less cost) and they thought a VS pump was a waste of funds. Furthermore, I got the impression that people were OK with the pump triggering full on as long as there was a longer time interval between pump start. I actually have a different view. I would rather the pump run all the time at some speed than cycle off. The cycling is what wakes folks up in my family, not the presence of a constant sound.
I took Reddog's/CDL2's advice under consideration, and here's what I did:
I needed to replace the pump anyway, and I decided 3.5GPM with a higher PSI (> 40PSI) was a good start
I also decided that space was a true premium in our unit. We have no available space to spare for a 1Gal or 2.5Gal tank (Under the sink space is a premium, and so is basement space).
Thus, I decided to try the VS Pump option. I figured that either it would work, or I would just add the accumulator tank to the mix and call it a $75.00 experiment that failed (the price difference between the single speed pump and the VS pump I bought).
I bought an AquaJet ES, since it is designed for replacement usage and would allow me to use the existing wiring (the Shurflo unit was 7A rated).
It was a 15 minute swap, and I liked the quick disconnect options on the Aquajet unit. In the winter, you can pull two tabs, and the pump will easily remove from the TC.
We had our first trip with the new pump.
Sound is down, but I think I can reduce the full-on dB level somewhat with a better mount. However, since most uses does not cause the pump to go full-on, average sound is greatly decreased.
DW reports that PSI and GPM now is equivalent to amounts when on city hookup. I must admit that flow and PSI are very good, and it can keep up with 2 faucets on at once without lacking pressure or volume. (With kids washing and someone taking a shower, it happens all the time in our TC.)
I see no need to add an accumulator to this system at this time. I know the pump would run less, but it actually works better that it runs constantly when someone is showering (and has the head on), and when someone is using the toilet or sink, it simply turns on a bit and very quietly increases the PSI.
To answer a few questions:
On the accumulator winterizing sub-thread. I found a couple notes like the Winterizing Guide and another one. Although I agree that it would seem the tank should simply drain when winterizing, note that these places (and others on the 'Net) recommend ensuring the tank drains and removing it to ensure that. Also, the FloJet tank manual states that PSI should be checked monthly. While I am pretyty sure no one actually does that, it all added up to more work possibilities to me.
I won't argue JeffPritchard's view that fancy pumps are overrated, but I don't think they are a waste of time. Two simple pumps would provide the flow/PSI needed for sure, but it's a lot of bulk and I have the same concerns there as I do for a accumulator tank. As well, I think 1 single-speed 3.5GPM/60PSI pump would have solved the flow/pressure issues fine, but I do like the quiet startup of the VS pump. I also think the idea of hanging the pump on a suspended board is a good idea and plan to implement that. Thus far, though, I would say that the switch was painless and I do not yet wish I had not messed with it.
MatthewB makes a good point that the electronics might affect the off-power draw. I can live with that. Pump power can be turned off via switch if needed.
So, I'm happy with my purchase. I know you'll all swear by the accumulator tank option still, but I challenge the tank-only owners to try out a VS pump sometime.
Jim
RE: Out side shower
I think the terminology is causing the issue.
Showerheads should not "leak".
Howver, as many have noted, if the showerhead has a valve on the back of the head (typically an easy to turn flat disk that serves as the back of the actual head, it will "trickle" when turned one way, and "spray" when turned another.
However, I think the description that it does this to relieve pressure might be a bit off. I think the main reason lies in teh fact that the showerhead designer wanted that valve to be very easy to turn. It's a 1/8 turn valve at most, and it can't have very good seals, or it would be hard to turn with soapy hands. Thus, the design sacrifices some sealing capacity for ease of use and limits to how much it must be turned to work.
Jim
RE: HHO Generator Good or Bad?
I'm not sure what concerns me more:
a) that a thread on HHO generators is on page 3, and hasn't been put the bed yet...
b) That an engineer would post on a forum in favor of such a contraption.
Kudos to those who spoke up about Thermodynamic Laws.
This does, though, indicate a need for a primer on the first law of thermodynamics for laymen (and laywomen) and how it figures into these items.
Now, if they could make a electrolysis machine that runs on lightning, that idea would have some merit (you'd still be obeying the 1st Law, but since the lightning is a free source of energy, you could end up with a net gain in usable energy. Of course, if one could harness lightning like that, it's probably more efficient to simply store the energy and use it directly, but I digress.
And here I'm adding to this thread. Sigh...
Jim
RE: Is NorthStar under water?
I thought I had responded already, but things are a blur.
Although Cedar Rapids (being the second largest city in IA) is getting more press, both it and Cedar Falls (and Iowa City) were hit to generally the same degree.
To put things in perspective, Cedar Rapids flood level is 20ft, and our 1993 flood was 24 feet. The water crested in CR at 31.12ft on Friday.
To illustrate, here is a picture of Mays Island in CR:
May's Island
And, here is the same pic on Thursday (bottom right is from the same direction - looking north, but top middle is the best shot, IMHO):
May's Island under water
The taller bridge in the pics is I-380, which goes from Iowa City to Cedar Falls/Waterloo. It stayed open, but all other roads connecting the two sides of the river for miles around were closed by Thursday evening and did not re-open until Sunday. However, I-380 was closed north of Iowa City from Firday and yesterday, and the detour was 281 miles long.
We're all starting the recovery process. Both Cedar Falls and Cedar Rapids are on water restrictions, as our water pumping stations are damaged (some pumps were/are underwater).
The link above has some good shots of the devastation, I can't put it into words. Some businesses were able to return to pick up important papers on Monday, and some took photos that are now on the site.
400+ city blocks are/were under water, and they are pegging the CR damage to be ~750million.
If getting a Wikipedia page is a badge of honor, so be it:
June 2008 Floods
They have some reference pictures on the Wikipedia page that shows the difference as well from May's Island's perspective.
As for us, we're 2 miles away from the river, so we're only indirectly affected. But, we've used the TC as a lifeline for a few days. When there were severe water restrictions, we showered and latrined in the TC. So, another use for an RV.
As for others not in the area, we lost a lot of the corn crop, it is expected, so corn-based items will no doubt rise in price. As well, they shut down I-80 around Iowa City, which is a large shippig route. The detour was supposed to go just south of CR, but that could not be done, so they ended up sending truckers all the way to Dubuque, over to I-35, and down to DesMoines. It added quite a few miles to any shipment across IA.
Jim
RE: Is NorthStar under water?
Forgive me, as I'm paying more attention to the Cedar Rapids issues than the Cedar Falls ones.
Last I heard, the levees in Cedar Falls are holding, though residents are expecting the worst. NWS/NOAA has revised and now state the river will crest here in Cedar Rapids 5am-10am tomorrow at 24.7ft, over twice flood stage for the Cedar River (at least in Cedar Rapids). Given the proximity, I expect Cedar Falls will crest just a few hours before we do.
Heavy rains today will prolong the crest, according the sources.
All local bridges in CR are closed, as water has topped them. I380 was open this morning, and I traveled south on it to business meetings. Words fail to describe the scene downtown. In fact, it's getting worse, so they closed the office and we are now home (there are only 2 ways to get N from the south of town, and both might close).
From Rex's point of view, I-380 has been partially closed, which may affect shipments of units and/or parts.
Iowa City will crest a bit later, and they expect it to top I-80, so it will be closed today from the I380 junction East to mile 267. That could affect everyone, as I80 is a major shipping route.
Currently, they are saying that the Cedar River is pushing as much water as the Mississippi on a low flow day. Cedar River is 1/4 the size of the Big Muddy.
Jim
RE: Is NorthStar under water?
From the "Forum that shall not be named":
June 9:
I just talked to Rex on the phone. His house sits high and dry, and the Northstar factory is about 2 miles from the river, so hopefully they won't have any problems. Someplace just North of his had 10"
of rain, and all of it flows to the South. Everyone in several surrounding states-Iowa, Nebraska, etc. is hoping for some dry, sunny weather for a change, and NO TORNADOS either.
I'm in Cedar Rapids, IA, just 45 minutes south. I've been to the factory, and know the area. He should be fine.
Jim
RE: Water Pump/Accumulator Suggestions? (UPDATED)
OK, an update:
Water pump is bad. It's leaking water back through it into the tank.
Actually, I'm happy about this, as I wanted a reason to replace anyway, and it proves the lines are not leaking.
I want a quieter pump than the OEM stock one.
Reddog notes the Whisper King, but I think I want more GPM than that unit. 3.5 or so would be nice. Also, would like more PSI.
Space for an accumulator is a significant concern. I have precious little of it, and none under the sink.
Some have noted the variable speed pumps were overrated. Yet, it seems all the high end coaches use them and do not use accumulators. What am I missing?
Any other pump suggestions?
